Fabrication Support
mrtorrence — 2015-01-28T21:19:56-05:00 — #1
Ok so I'm planning on cutting out my hive on tuesday February 3rd.
I'm wondering first off what sorts of feeds and speeds are people using and what is the total cutting time they correspond to? My plywood is 3/4" thick birch
Also what size bit are people using? 1/4" or 1/2"
aaronm — 2015-01-28T21:55:54-05:00 — #2
@mrtorrence
Thanks for checking in. A few questions:
- Which router are you using?
- Which hive are you making?
@jonathan what feeds and speeds would you recommend?
We've been using 3/8" bits I believe, but Jon will confirm.
Total cutting time depends on your router.
We'd love to see some photos, so please update us here:
mrtorrence — 2015-01-28T22:02:53-05:00 — #3
Whoops sorry, I'm building the Colorado Top Bar.
I'm using a router at the Manufactory in Sharonville, OH. Checking on brand I'll get back to you..
I'll definitely take a bunch of pictures/video
aaronm — 2015-01-29T18:32:56-05:00 — #4
Hi @mrtorrence - it looks like the files are set up for 1/4" bits, so plan to use that. We spoke with a commercial CNC operator today, and they cut at 400 inches a minute on a high end machine, so definitely don't surpass that. If you need more information, let us know, and I'll try to get @jonathan's input.
mrtorrence — 2015-02-03T19:23:40-05:00 — #5
Whoa 400 inches is crazy fast, I don't think the machine I'll be using can go much faster than 100 inches/minute.
Ok a few more questions..
1) In the manual on page 8 under the 'Cut Strategies' table one of the rows is "Angled Pocket 3D" and the associated color is white. Ok now I'm realizing I could have gone in and changed the color within the toolpathing software, but this might be something you guys want to change in the manual..
2) What angle is the "Pocket Entry" (colored green) chamfer for the roof panels?
3) When I use a 1/4" end mill bit to make the toolpath for the top bars I can't put tabs in between the bars. Are people finding that putting tabs on the top and bottom of the bars is sufficient? Or should I change the vector to add tabs manually, then cut out the bars with a table saw or something later?
mrtorrence — 2015-02-25T11:06:14-05:00 — #6
Bump.
Hoping to finish my toolpathing today so any advice on questions 2 and 3 would be really appreciated!
marcob8890 — 2015-02-26T10:57:05-05:00 — #7
The top bars I cut separated at the bullnose so I make them out of 1x2 and glue 1/4in. Strips on them. I run my cut rate at between 50ipm and 100ipm, depending on the controller you should be able to adjust on the fly. I cut the bevel with a skillsaw after I rout the parts. Have a good sharp chisel and a mallet to cut the tabs while they are still laying down, this will reduce tear out. If you can get one a 3/8" belt sander helps with clean up, or a medium rasp will also help.
I group my parts and cut them individually so I can make adjustments to depth if needed.
It's a really good design and I didn't have any problems with it, good luck.
mrtorrence — 2015-02-27T22:13:31-05:00 — #8
Awesome, thank you so much @marcob8890!! VERY helpful
mrtorrence — 2015-03-11T20:12:25-04:00 — #9
Soooo I totally messed up. I could have sworn I used the 18mm design file which would have been the best suited for my .72 inch thick piece of plywood but the pieces and wedges are not fitting together right at all.
The site isn't letting me upload a picture because I'm a "new user" but here is a link to it: https://www.dropbox.com/s/yhojococryojt88/IMG_3450.JPG?dl=0
As you can see the pieces are not anywhere close to fitting together correctly. What did I do wrong?! What's the best way to salvage this? I could cut out new wedges that are the correct size possibly and then fill in the gaps with a non-toxic spray foam insulation. Other thoughts?
aaronm — 2015-03-11T20:32:00-04:00 — #10
Hey There - the dropbox folder doesn't have an image in it - can you check and resend/repost a new link?
mrtorrence — 2015-03-12T03:38:41-04:00 — #11
Sorry, try now
jonathan — 2015-03-12T13:46:19-04:00 — #12
Hi Mr Torrence,
This could be that the profile settings for these particular joints "Inside Profiles" have been set to cut on the outside of the given vectors. I say this because the gaps are very wide indeed and also seem to correspond to the diameter of a 1/4 inch milling bit. Could you check your strategies in your CAM setup?
mrtorrence — 2015-03-12T15:18:48-04:00 — #13
Ahhh that makes sense. I'll check the toolpath next time I go in to the makerspace. So for future reference would a 1/4" end mill still work for those inside profiles once it's set to cut the inside of the vectors or should I use a smaller bit?
Also, what's the best way to fix the problem with this current hive? Off the top of my head I can think of gluing in wood shims, maybe some sort of spray foam insulation or caulk assuming it doesn't offgas anything toxic. What else? Specific brands of caulk to use? I could also cut out larger wedges, but I'd probably have to get a whole new sheet of plywood unless I find scraps at the makerspace.
mrtorrence — 2015-03-17T21:16:03-04:00 — #14
Just checked the software I used to create the toolpath and you are right. All the inside profiles were set to cut the outside/right of the vector. The other two options are "inside/left" and "on". Which of these two should I have used? Inside/left? Also all these are set to a conventional cut. Would I have gotten a better finish if I used a climb cut?